The "Old Masters" are well-covered in the Eternal City - but when it comes to contemporary art it's perhaps not as easy to know where to go to purchase something from emerging or lesser-known artists, so I've been exploring some small galleries, which are definitely worth a look.
Starting in the Monti district - often described as "cool" or "arty" and popular with a younger crowd (when I first came to live in Rome I had an apartment here and spent a lot of time enjoying the area) - there is a high concentration of small galleries tucked away between independent boutiques, bars, restaurants and attractive buildings with hanging plants and flowers. Even if art isn't your thing, it's an intriguing zone to wander around.
So first up is SCRIPANTE GALLERY on Via Panisperna. The venue is very laid back, with a small bar serving cocktails from 6pm - 2am, or slightly earlier if all you want is a cold beer.
MAXIMA GALLERY on Via Agostino Depretis, currently has some challenging pieces of both sculpture and wall art.
GALLERIA CHIARI on Via Napoli had some tempting items. I couldn't find a website but they seem to be closed at weekends and on national holidays.
In the area between the American Embassy and the British Embassy I found ROSSO CINABRO on Via Raffaele Cadorna, in the district known as Sallustiana. They exhibit work by figurative and abstract artists, photographers, digital artists and sculptors.
FRANCESCA ANTONINI not far from Piazza Barberini, has some nice work. I personally like Alessandra Giovannoni, born and working in Rome, plus several other Italian artists.
If you're an artist looking for somewhere to exhibit your own work, take a look at some of the links below:
NVMEN not far from the Colosseum.
MAKEMAKE in the Monti district towards the Roman Forum end.
These are just a few from one or two areas of the city, with more to be added as I get chance.
In the locality of Serapo, not far from a rocky spur in the inlet of Fontania, we can still see the remains of the sumptuous Roman villa of the consul Gneo Fonteo, from which the place takes its name. A number of small caves resembling rooms of different depths originally served as storage for the villa's private port. Across the mouth of the tiny bay you can still see the foundations of massive rectangular constructions [see photo below]. The villa, built in the 1st C BC, was rich in nymphaea and exedras, so it would have been rather grandiose and extended as far as the " Devil's Hole" (Pozzo del Diavolo) which has an impressive 50 metre drop into the sea below. There would be more to see but partly due to extensive erosion the area remains somewhat precarious.
These photos are taken from a small cafe directly above the cove, which also has an attractive sun terrace with grass lawn and hot showers and has direct access for those who wish to descend to the small public beach, which as far as I can tell hasn't had many non-Italian visitors so it's a great little place for feeling like a local. Below you can make out a small part of the Roman villa on the right and in the distance is Monte Orlando where the Sanctuary, Split Mountain and the Turk's Cave are located.
Places to visit & things to do:
Where & what to eat & drink:
Without doubt we will gradually be adding to the above and updating opening times, etc.., so do check back from time to time.
We know that for many travellers a romantic city-break is "short and sweet"...often arriving on Day One and departing on Day Four, leaving only two 2 full days in which to explore.
With that in mind, I gave some thought to where I'd want to be taken if it were my first time in the city - places that lend themselves to the idea of romance but don't need prior booking (keeping that lovely spontaneous feel).
So, first up...
Romantic Beauty Spots
My first instinct was to say Villa Borghese and the Pincio (overlooking Piazza del Popolo), but it can get busy and difficult in the clement months from May - July to find a quiet spot all to yourself - unless you get up very early.
So instead I'd suggest the following:
Fall in Love over a Cappuccino!
For me the café is a place to reflect, people-watch, work, relax and above all - enjoy that caffeine kick. But if all you want to do is gaze into each others eyes, here's where I'd go:
Lunch with a View or Dinner by Candlelight
Al Fresco or tucked away in a booth ...
Leave your hotel room for at least one night during your romantic getaway!
One Must-See Sight!
We decided that if you're on a tight schedule and you're with a special someone - the one monument we would recommend (despite the throngs of tourist) would be the Colosseum - more so if this is the first time for both. It's unique and even more impressive from the inside.
I will be adding a map with all of the location indicated.
It's that time of year! Late April through May or June, when many old villages in the Italian countryside, and throughout the Christian world, suddenly burst with technicolor. These "infiorate" - sometimes referred to as Corpus Christi Carpets - are liturgical celebrations of the Corpus Domini.
The Corpus Domini is a Catholic festival with processions and rich spiritual representations that take place on the streets of Italian towns. The Blessed Sacrament (Eucharist) is placed in an open or transparent religious vessel and held aloft by a member of the clergy during the procession. The beautiful flower carpets animate historical centres giving a distinctive mark to the solemnity. Afterwards parishioners return to the church for benediction.
The most impressive Flower Carpets [Infiorate] in Lazio
Vignanello will be holding their "Festa del Fiore" on Saturday 28th April.
Itri - 31st May
Bolsena - Sunday 3rd June at 09:00
Genzano di Roma - 9th -11th June is the most famous of the Lazio region
Alatri - as far as I can tell the date will be Sunday 3rd June. In the past their Infiorata has entered the Guinness Book of Records for being the largest in the world.
Casamari Abbey near Veroli also Sunday 3rd June might be worth a look.
Tarquinia usually has a nice Infiorata but dates for 2018 to be confirmed.
Other flower festivals
Priverno - Saturday 28th & Sunday 29th April. Not an "infiorata" but staying with the flower theme this is a Camilla flower show which will take place in the old part of Priverno (province of Latina) with stalls, events, artistic displays and a competition for the most beautiful balcony.
Vitorchiano Peony Gardens - are late blooming this year on account of the colder weather but they should be bursting with colour mid-April, lasting throughout May, June and most of the Summer.
Some of the plants chosen for their particular coloured petals, berries or seeds: Acacia, Carnations, Camellia, Cyclamen, Chrysanthemum, Crocus, Dahlia, Gerbera, Hibiscus, Lotus, Iris, Ivy, Mimosa, Narcissus, Orchid, Poppy, Petunia, Primula, Roses, Tulips, Valerian.
So you're coming to Rome for your own version of 'Roman Holiday' and you've decided you'd like a romantic picnic [in your hotel room], but you're not sure where to go for supplies . . .
As you see we have quite a few favourites of our own...some established, some newer - all great places to indulge.
Useful words to type into Google Maps alimentari gastronomia alimentari storici salumeria panificio
and below are some of the results in no particular order:
We will be adding photos and other places to this already delicious list, so check back for more...
Golf Ryder Cup 2022
Rome is all set to be the location of the prestigious international golf competition in 2022. This will be the first time that Italy has been chosen to host the event. The Marco Simone Golf and Country Club, 17 km from the centre of Rome, will follow in France's footsteps who will host the 2018 event. This 44th edition of the match between Europe and the United States will be staged in the autumn of 2022.
What is the Ryder Cup? It's one of the greatest sporting events named after its founder Samuel Ryder and takes place every two years, where 24 of the best players from Europe and the United States go head-to-head in 5 match play sessions over 3 days. So far the USA has had most wins.
Apart from Marco Simone there are 28 other golf clubs, resorts and driving ranges in the Lazio region.
It's too early to purchase tickets yet but we've included a link to the official Italian golf federation, where you can find all the information plus a list of the golf courses in Italy.
How to keep your tummy happy in hot temperatures and heatwaves.
During the hottest months of the year, which in Rome can be from as early as June to early September, it is a good idea to adjust your diet, in order to keep your organism 'fresh' and well hydrated, especially on very sultry days. Seasonal fruit in particular such as melon, watermelon, peaches and strawberries are great because they contain so much water.
Here's the shortlist:
We also have a few favourite recipes that we enjoy when it's hot:
We don't tend to have alcohol at lunch time when it's very hot (or the evenings for that matter) since alcohol is, by nature, dehydrating, but if we really fancied something with our lunch it would be no more than one glass of chilled white wine or prosecco, and in August we would stick to mineral water (still or naturally effervescent). For evenings my new favourite cocktail is a virgin Mojito!
NB: if you're not based in Rome (Rome has great-tasting clean drinking water) and you're not sure if your water is safe for washing salad you can use bottled mineral water. Find advice from the BBC on washing salad and veg.
I live in Rome - which is great - but during the summer I go to the beach to cool off! Some beach clubs are more equipped than others so, as a seasoned Italian beach-goer, and to cover every eventuality - I have a regimented, slightly obsessive list of what goes into my beach bag - and what goes on me!
Flip Flops - I don't like the ones with a toe post so I have them without. One pair I've had for over 10 years and they are still the most comfy pair I own (pictured bottom).
Espadrilles - I can't praise these enough. The natural fibres allow the feet to breath and they don't chafe because your feet don't slip in them and the tops are soft cotton.
Headscarf, sunhat and/or parasol - this might seem over-the-top but I've had heat-stroke and it was pretty scary! So when it's very hot (over 36°) I soak a headscarf in cold water, wear it on my head and then put my sun hat on top of that. The parasol is often required as well and just about fits in the bag.
Swimming Costume - obviously, or bikini...and a slightly oversized thin cotton top with 3/4 sleeves, which I keep on when I go paddling in the sea and need extra protection from the sun.
For Travelling - floaty palazzo pants and lightweight cotton or silk top, or loose lightweight cotton dress.
Anti-mosquito spray & after bite gel - I have sensitive skin so I use brands with formulas suitable for babies. I usually stick in a small tube of antiseptic or cortisone cream too (useful to have it, just in case).
Ladies 'things' - if you've timed it right this shouldn't happen but you never know...so, yes I carry one or two items to be on the safe side. Actually I did find myself in this embarrassing situation once. I had to leave the beach...go all the way into the nearest town...find a pharmacy...and then come all the way back to the beach. But it would have been sooo much easier if I'd been prepared.
Mineral water & sports drinks - kept chilled with those bricks from the freezer in an insulated bag (instead of having them turn into warm 'soup'). I also boost myself with magnesium and potassium mineral salts, since our bodies lose them when we sweat and need replenishing.
Sunglasses - the best quality lenses I can afford and that cover the entire eye area.
Sun-screen - I like Piz Buin Allergy 50+, Avène for intollerant skin, Athena L'Erboristica for sensitive skin, and La Roche-Posay Anthelios for sensitive/allergic skin. I don't know if my skin is allergic to the sun or allergic to some sun-screens when they're exposed to the sun, but these four products are great for my skin's particular needs.
Swimming costume bag - for wet swimwear.
Thermal spring water atomiser for face & body - an absolute must! I don't mind which brand it is: Evian, La Roche-Posay or Avène ... but it has to be in the bag! I love the sensation of the cooling mist on my face.
Two large beach towels - one for me and one for the sun-bed.
Shower foam & shampoo - I love Clarins Eau Dynamissante shower foam and L'Erbolario after sun hair and body shampoo which help get rid of sea salt.
After-sun soothing gel - when we've finished at the beach, showered and am ready to head home, I use after-sun gel to provide immediate relief for any pink or sunburned areas.
Extra Notes - some great tips if you do find that you look like an uncooked sausage when you get back from the beach (or after having been exposed to the sun in general) … take a cool (not cold) bath and stay in for at least 15 minutes and repeat if possible at intervals. This I think takes some of the heat out of the body and actually feels really nice. If you only have a shower try wrapping cool damp towels on any pink/red area for at least 15 minutes and repeat if possible at intervals. Natural Aloe gel is said to soothe sunburn. Advice also includes taking Ibuprofen and drinking lots of water to rehydrate. Depending on how bad the sunburn is, stay out of the sun altogether for a day or two for the skin to recover.
This is not medical advice … I found these tips online on a reputable dermatology website and have to say the multi-pronged attack really helped. In the morning there was no pink in sight but I stayed completely out of the sun the next day. The only reason this happened to me when I'm normally so careful is that there was a strong breeze masking the heat and I forgot to put sun screen on my legs.
If you have visited Rome, or the surrounding Latium (Lazio region) you have, no doubt, seen floors like these. So striking - hard not to notice - and the intricacies, craftsmanship and colours are amazing. The Cosmati were a Roman family, spanning four generations between the 12th & 13th c. AD, of sculptors, architects and workers in decorative geometric mosaic. The designs are to be found in churches, mostly on the floors but also on pulpits, doors, columns, tombs and other areas.
Pictured are some fine examples of this type of flooring in Rome and Lazio. As you can see the tiny mosaic pieces of coloured stone and glass are triangular, rectangular and rhomboid in shape - some inlaid with gold. One can notice the Byzantine and Islamic influences in the style of the work, coming down through Ravenna, and up through Sicily.
The main locations in Rome are:
Some of the best examples outside of Rome in Lazio are:
Curious note: Westminster Abbey has two Cosmatesque pavements, created during the same period - one is set before the High Alter and the other is in the Sanctuary associated with the Shrine of Edward the Confessor.
Below are examples photographed from around Rome and the Lazio region.
Before living in Italy mosquitoes were not part of my life - and apparently, as I've been told many times by amused locals - they must like my blood. During a particularly bad year on a weekend in Padua I counted 100 bites, from the top of my head down to my toes. I ended up a sweaty mess having decided to sleep in pyjamas and socks so as not to expose any further parts of my flesh (sadly the friend I was visiting didn't have aircon so we had to have the windows open or suffocate). Luckily I didn't get any scarring or infections from the bites (regular mosquitoes not Tiger mosquitoes), but still, that was a year I will never forget!
Since that weekend I always prepare myself before mosquito season begins - which can be from as early as Spring (March/April) if the temperature stays above 10°c. From March to June larvae are hatching so this is the best period to carry out pest control measures. Generally hotels with pools, gardens, grounds or water features should start doing this before high season kicks in (high season for both tourists and mosquitoes).
From June to September I'd suggest keeping mosquito repellent, and 'after bite' gel in your handbag and get some of those lovely yellow citronella candles if dining al fresco. There are repellents for skin application which contain citronella (odious to mosquitoes) but they are quite strong smelling, and odious to me also - plus I also have very sensitive skin so I usually opt for products suitable for babies. My favourite is the Chicco brand, and (I've not tried it yet) Monellini. Another brand I haven't tried yet is Flora, found in shops called 'erboristeria' (herbalist/health shop).
If you have a bad reaction to a mosquito bite (or any insect bite...) cortisone cream usually does the trick, or an antihistamine tablet, or in worse cases a shot at A&E (ER) but you should really consult a pharmacist who will be able to advise you. I have had bites which have swollen to 7 cm across and raised by about half a cm and have used cortisone cream, which gave improvement. If you get no relief from a bite or it gets worse it would be wise to get to a hospital.
On a similar note: last year we had a big problem with what I would describe as a very irritating cousin of the mosquito called pappataci (which literally means "eat silently" - which I believe are the same as Sand Flies (even though we are nowhere near any sand: Phlebotomus papatasi). These are smaller and can fit thorough mosquito screens. Unlike mosquitoes they do not buzz so you have no idea when you are being attacked. Their bites are quite painful and even more itchy than mosquito bites - I never thought I'd hear myself saying that I'd prefer mosquitoes!
We discovered that they attack during hours of darkness, since they are disturbed by the light. We also discovered that they travel in pairs so if you manage to kill one...keep a look out for the other. They move very fast and are not easy to kill but not impossible.
Unfortunately essential oils that keep such insects away are very dangerous for cats....and we have a cat. So alternatives include pots of Geranium and Incense on balconies and creating your own pappataci screen (I have used a fine white muslin to allow max daylight and fresh air to pass through). Last year I only managed a makeshift affair but the little monsters managed to get past the gaps around the edges.
To keep pappataci bites infection-free I used tiny dabs of pure Tea Tree essential oil.
Pappataci are mainly active between May and September. Personally we've found June to be the worst month.
The word for Mosquito in Italian is Zanzara.
The more aggressive Tiger Mosquto is called: Zanzara Tigre.
On a happier note there is a very pleasant bistro in Rome called La Zanazara, located on Via Crescenzio, which is quite close to the Vatican. A popular hangout for locals and tourists.
Final note: keep all kinds of essential oils and mosquito sprays away from part of the body such as inside the nose, mouth, eyes - basically all the places you wouldn't want to touch yourself accidentally with chilli pepper. Avoid wearing sweet scented perfumes, which may attract bees/wasps).
For further info in mosquitoes and pappataci: http://ecdc.europa.eu/en/healthtopics/vectors/sanflies/Pages/sandflies.aspx
Disclaimer: Laran Tours of Lazio accepts no responsibility for illness, misadventure or death arising from actions taken as a result of reading this document. The information in this document is meant only as a source of information and guidance. It is in no way meant to be taken as medical instruction or diagnosis. You should not rely on material here above and it is up to you to contact a health professional if you are concerned about your health.