 Terracina - Fondi - Formia - Minturno: Province of LatinaOne of the most intact sections of the Appian away is to be found beyond Rome, in the countryside immersed in timeless solitude. The highlight of this unique area is that you will be walking on (or admiring) original stretches of the ancient Appian Way situated between two or 4 ancient towns in the attractive Latina province.
Terracina: the ancient Appian Way climbed over the mountain behind the hill where the sanctuary or 'Temple of Anxur' is visible and visitable. Emperor Trajan changed the course of the Appia by cutting the cliff, called Pesco Montano, still visible today. The ancient city is located high up, while the village built by Pope Pius VI remains at the ancient port of Trajan. The Via Appia entered the city though Via della Stazione, Via Porta Romana and Corso Garibaldi. The watchtower on the Via Appia before entering the Roman circle, from the Republican era, is perfectly preserved. Piazza del Duomo, the ancient city forum, preserves the original floor, part of which consists of the paved base of the Via Appia that crossed it on one side. Fondi: remarkable Roman walls with large towers. The chessboard plan of the town follows the Roman one. Here, as in Terracina, the Appia crossed the city. There are also notable medieval monuments including the castle of the Caetani and the Colonna. The current road perfectly follows the ancient one up to the Valle di Sant'Andrea. The original stretch of the Appian Way (Corso Appio Claudio) is underneath the present day street, so as you walk along it you'll be walking on top of an important piece of history. It is possible to continue further, covering the entire Appian Way in Lazio to Formia and Minturno. Although not often open to the public it is sometimes possible to visit 'Cicero's Tomb' in Formia and the 'Roman Cistern', which is normally only open at weekends, and the large archaeological park at Minturno. If interested in exploring this area with a local guide please visit our 'weekends out of Rome' tours! Main picture - a typical street scene in Fondi.
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 The Ancient Appian Way Beyond Rome The Appian Way, which was built as a military road, starts in Rome, passes through southern Lazio and eventually reaches Puglia: the “heel” of Italy, in the direction of Greece and the Middle East. It’s a route that remained strategic for centuries. The Lazio towns along the route were as follows: Rome, Ciampino, Marino, Castel Gandolfo, Albano Laziale, Ariccia, Genzano, Nemi, Velletri, Cisterna di Latina, Latina, Sermoneta, Sezze, Pontinia, Terracina, Monte San Biagio, Fondi, Itri, Gaeta, Formia and finally Minturno. The Appian Way (Via Appia / Appia Antica) was first among all roads and, in its day, was the longest, most attractive and most imposing road ever built and for this reason it was named “Queen of All Roads” or Regina Viarum. It was 365 miles long (530km) and took two weeks to travel the entire length. The poet Stazio, who lived at the time of Domitian, used this appellative in his famous verses: "FLECTERE IAM CUPIDUM GRESSUS, QUA LIMITE NOTO APPIA LONGARUM TERITUR REGINA VIARUM " (Anxious to direct his steps where, for a known path runs the Appia, the queen of long roads) (Statius, Silvae, Lib.II) As mentioned before, the Appian Way was a military road which facilitated faster communication with the southern borders of the conquered territory. The consul Appio Claudio Cieco was the one who made the road, at the time of the wars against the Samnites in 312 BC, from Rome to Capua, for a distance of 124 Roman miles, using his own personal capital for the construction. The first section was built from Rome to Capua, but the stretch between Rome and Albano had been in existence for some time. Appius Claudius restored the ancient road as far as Bovillae (Albano) then extended it to Capua, through the Pontine Marshes and Formia, thus diminishing the importance of the Via Latina, which until then had been the main route, and from then on became a simple service route of secondary importance. The Via Latina (already in use in prehistoric and Etruscan times) whose name is directly connected to the territory through which it crosses (that of the old Latina League, subdued during the fourth century BC), was one of the roads most exploited by the Romans in the conquest of Lazio and of Campania. The Via Latina separated from the Via Appia south of Porta Capena, passing the Aurelian walls through the Porta Latina. It stretched over 200 Km to the south-east, through southern Lazio and northern Campania, crossing the Sacco valley, the Liri valley and along the slopes of the Lepini, Ausoni and Aurunci mountains. It was only later, in 268 AC, that the Appian Way arrived as far as Benevento and on to Brindisi, making it the most travelled road of the Mediterranean. The road began in Rome at Porta Capena (parte of the ancient Servian walls, between Porta Capena and the Marte hill) although in antiquity it was not called the Appia but the Semita, which meant “sinuous uneven path”, in fact Via di Porta San Sebastiano is still very winding all the way to Caffarella. It took the name Appia only at the sepulcher of Priscilla, shortly afterwards the road became straight as far as Bovillae, at the foot of the Alban Mountains. From here the road climbed and descended until Ariccia, passing through Genzano, leaving the area with Velletri on the left. The road then continued through the Pontine Marshes on an artificial bank (30 Km of marshland was crossed thanks to incredible reclamation work and road engineering), continuing on through the Appio Forum, passing near Pomezia and on towards the centre of Terracina. Here the road climbed up the hill of Anxur and descended to the plains of Fondi. (the section from Rome to Terracina was almost 90 Km of straight road). The road continued through Liri (now Garigliano) and Minturno, then, leaving modern Lazio behind, it reached Sinuessa, then Volturno, Casilinum, and finally Capua. Fourteen years after the beginning of the works (in 298), Tito Livio informs us that the Appia extended to Porta Capena at the Clivio di Marte and that it had been paved with polygonal blocks of basalt or lava. After three years (in 295), the route had extended from the Clivio di Marte to the ancient city of Bovillae. The prefect Caio Gracco erected milestones showing the distance from the city. He built the viaduct of Ariccia and expanded the paving. At the time of Caesar and under Augustus the road was paved up to Capua, and shortly afterwards the rest of the way to Brindisi.  Via Latina (what to see):Rome: Porta Latina, is among the most impressive and best preserved among the original doors of the entire city walls and its name derives from that of the homonymous street that crosses it and that, in Roman times, led to Capua. The archaeological park of the Tombs of Via Latina is one of the most important funerary complexes of the suburb of Rome which still preserves the traditional aspect of the ancient Roman countryside. Ferentino: the city walls remain intact for 2.5 km (pre-Roman and Roman walls with medieval alterations) around the centre of the town and the gates are spectacular, including that of S. Agata: here passed part of the Via Latina, which ran the entire length of the city as the main axis of the urban structure with east-west direction. Aquino: The road reached Aquino where, leaving the village, it passed through the Republican doors (still well preserved) and under an honorary arch (from the 1st century BC) near the church of S. Maria d'Aquino; for 300 m of this stretch some remains of the ancient paving are visible.  Via Appia (what to see):Rome: Appia Antica Park From Frattocchie to Albano: the Appia coincides with the SS7 Appia state road. On the right are the remains of the ancient Boville (Bovillae), while on the left there are two sepulchres. The most important ancient monuments of Albano: the Porta Pretoria and the Mausoleum of the Orazi and Curiazi. Terracina: The ancient Appian Way climbed over the mountain behind the hill where is the sanctuary of Anxur (visitable). The emperor Trajan changed the course of the Appia by cutting the cliff, called Pesco Montano, still visible for those travelling along the coast. The ancient city is located high up, while the village built by Pope Pius VI remains at the ancient port of Trajan. The Via Appia entered the city via Via della Stazione, Via Porta Romana and Corso Garibaldi. the watchtower on the Via Appia before entering the Roman circle, from the Republican era, is perfectly preserved. Piazza del Duomo, the ancient city forum, preserves the original floor, part of which consists of the paved base of the Via Appia that crossed it on one side. Sperlonga: here starts the Via Flacca, for Gaeta and Formia, a coastal variant of the Appia, built by L. Valerio Flacco in 184 BC, which passed through Sperlonga, near the ruins of the villa of Tiberius. Fondi: remarkable Roman walls with large towers. The chessboard plan of the town follows the Roman one. Here, as in Terracina, the Appia crossed the city. There are also notable medieval monuments including the castle of the Caetani and the Colonna. The current road perfectly follows the ancient up to the Valle di Sant'Andrea. Formia: Tomba di Cicerone, is located along the Via Appia towards Rome at Km. 139. The mausoleum dates back to the Augustan age and even today the attribution of the sepulcher to Cicero remains doubtful, even if some clues confirm this hypothesis, such as the presence of one of its grandiose villas. Minturno: archaeological area. Set on a hill overlooking the seaside areas of Scauri and Marina di Minturno, it has very ancient origins. Its settlement, built along the Via Appia stretch, stretched on the right bank of the Garigliano river (ancient Liris).  This post first appeared in the Laran Tours Spring/Summer Newsletter.
 Today Ronciglione is a thriving attractive town, welcoming tourists and visitors throughout the year but especially in Summer when people come to enjoy the lake, cycling and walking. Holidaymakers camping at Lake Bolsena are within easy reach of Ronciglione - a pretty route by bike or campervan. The main high street is about 2 km long, lined with pretty pastel coloured shops and houses - some dating back to the 17th century which you can see reflected in the beautiful architectural features such as the balconies.  Ronciglione is NOT a place where you should come if you want to watch your waistline though, as there are delicious pastry shops, bakeries, ice-cream shops and cafès, plus a choice of excellent restaurants - of one which is owned by one of the Fendi sisters. There is a great bakery which only makes bread, cobs, pizzas (not your usual idea of a pizza - these are referred to as pizza rossa (red) or pizza bianca (white), served by weight or size, and are usually eaten cold) and some traditional sweet biscuits and tarts. Our favourite pastry shop is the 'Dolce Borgo' pictured below, located on Via del Lavatoio. The owners speak some English, otherwise just point! :) For delicious and very filling take-away (or eat-in) we love 'Corte dei Prefetti di Vico' on the main high street.  There are a number of famous events which take place in the town each year. Starting with Carnival in Feb/Mar, the Mille Miglia vintage car race passes through in May, and the Palio in July. If you want to practice your Italian there is an open-air cinema late evenings throughout August. We can honestly say that these are all fun events, worth experiencing at least once during your stay in central Italy and you MUST go to our favourite pastry shop!  Above you get a glimpse of the old part of town - the Borgo Medievale (Medieval village), considered one of the most beautiful 'burgs' of central Italy. It is a charming muddle of balconies, flower pots and hanging laundry - and a castle! Bring your camera or sketchbook to record the many pretty corners and alleys (which also provide cool shade in the Summer heat!) and if you would like to visit the castle then please get in touch with us through our contact form. A Bit of HistoryThe most ancient document mentioning Ronciglione dates to 1103 but an historian from 16th century Orvieto gave a slightly earlier date of 1045, due to the Prefetti of Vico. Later it was a possession of the House of Anguillara, a baronal familty of Latium and a Guelph family of Rome. Pope Paul II conquered it to the Papal States in 1465. In 1526 Ronciglione became a possession of the House of Farnese, and lived its period of greatest splendour: its industries included manufacturing of copper, iron, paper, weapons and others. In 1649 the Farnese seigniory ended and was bought back by Pope Innocent X, in 1728 it received the status of city by Pope Benedict XIII. The Ronciglionesi took active part in the Roman Republic of 1798–99: the French troops, however, crushed the revolt and burnt the city on July 20, 1799. Monuments & sights (mostly churches):
Places to Get WedWell, of course there is the very charming aforementioned medieval castle situated a short walk from the main church; there is a hotel (with small spa and medium-sized outdoor pool) overlooking Lake Vico, and an estate belonging to a noble family called Villa Lina which has an area with its own private pool set in a kiwi plantation. Claims to Fame!The classic film 'La Vita è Bella' starring Roberto Benigni (Life is Beautiful) was set during WWII and used Ronciglione's disused train station for the scene where they have to get on the train (about half way through), and the church of Sant'Eusebio was used as a location for one of the many films of the life of St. Francis - and infact the St. Francis Way...better known as the Via Francigena, runs through Ronciglione near the castle.
 Over the weekend we were out and about near Soriano nel Cimino, Bagnaia and the Monti Cimini mountains. Today we explored "La Faggeta" Beech, Fir and Pine woods, and we finally had lunch in a restaurant we've been wanting to try for a while {see bottom of post}. As the photographs document, the weather was perfect and the Autumn leaves glowed like gold. These places are only really reachable by private transport, and at this time of year it's best to plan your day during the morning/mid-afternoon. The woods can turn very chilly late-afternoon with temperatures suddenly dropping and daylight fading.
These tiny apples look like Crab-apples and I could smell their aroma wafting in the air well before we reached the place where they had fallen onto the ground. In Italian they seem just to be referred to as wild apples {mele selvatiche} and while we're on the subject of apples, our favourites are Mela Cotogna, which are very similar to English cooking apples and are often made into jam!
Now we're into the tall trees....as we walked further into the woods the temperature did drop and my fingers became icy cold. It was a sunny warm day but it felt very wintry in here - if there had been snow it would have seemed like Narnia, infact we can't wait to come back when there is snow. So, if you're after peace and quiet this is the place to come - occasionally encountering mountain-bikers, equestrians and other walkers - and there are picnic areas dotted around where you can enjoy your flask of hot chocolate & rum!  And once you've worked up a good appetite you can drive {about 10 minutes} to this lovely restaurant called 'La Gramignana', set in a small private park where in the Summer you can have lunch or dinner overlooking the outdoor pool. Opening times: closed Mon & Tue; Dinner Wed, Thu; Lunch & Dinner Fri, Sat, Sun.
The red marker roughly shows the area we were walking in. The closest large town is Ronciglione and the closest smaller town is Bagnaia, which also has the delightful ornamental gardens of Villa Lante.
  Above you see the town as we approached in an organised chaos. You can see some of the old-fashioned toilets sticking off the buildings - built outside like this to be more hygienic. And of course you can't have an Italian countryside town (or any Italian town) without the ubiquitous hanging laundry, which I love to see...and smell...as we walked through the old town there was scent of laundry soap in the air.  History of Grotte di Castro Grotte di Castro was an Etruscan center of primary importance. It was originally located near the border between the territories of the Vulci and Volsinii and was inhabited since the second half of the 7th c. BC. It experienced a remarkable development during the next century, as the consistent expansion of the surrounding necropolis, with numerous tombs in the rooms, would seem to suggest. Then between the late 4th and early 3rd centuries B.C. damage by Roman expansionism of the Volsinii territory brought an almost complete abandonment of the land. During the Middle Ages Lombard invasions of the 8th century A.D. forced the inhabitants to flee to the nearby and more secure cliff where the present town of Grotte di Castro stands. These exiles, with no goods or housing, were forced to use the caves as their homes - some already existing and partly dug out of the soft tufa rock – in fact this peculiarity gave the nickname of '"Castrum Criptarum" to the area.  The Duchy of Castro After several centuries of wars, in the 16th century Grotte had become part of the Duchy of Castro. In the year 1537, Duke Pier Luigi Farnese, having acquired the whole of Frascati town and surrounding land, sold it to the Apostolic Chamber and received in return the town of Castro and the "'Castle of the Caves". In 1649, the city of Castro was invaded and destroyed by papal troops at the behest of Pope Innocent X. Grotte thus returned under direct rule of the Holy See and was freed only after unification, with the annexation of the provinces of Lazio to the Kingdom of Italy, in 1870. Pictured: (above) Lake Bolsena in the distance, and (below) looking toward the oldest part of Grotte di Castro.  More recent The first residential center of Grotte di Castro was built in the place where today you can admire the Basilica Santuario di Maria SS. del Suffragio, in the Baroque style (pictured below). It lies along the ancient medieval route that leads through the remains of the Renaissance town. The church we see today was built in 1625, on top of a previous structure of the 8th century, dedicated to St. John the Baptist, some parts of which remain embedded in the church and the underground. In the historical center, is a building, that once housed the mayor, but since 1993 has been home to the Museum of Archaeology & Popular Traditions with more than 160 Etruscan exhibits on display. The construction of the larger fountain, reminds inhabitants that it wasn't until 1886 that a proper water supply was installed in the town.
The Basilica is absolutely stunning. My photos haven't done it justice but there were these fantastic chandeliers in the main part - about 10 or more, then walking through to a smaller but sumptuous chapel with these amazing arched windows and looking more like a noble palace than a religious building. Really quite unexpected.
Curiosity We were interested to find a local bakery using the ancient process of baking with 'Pasta Madre' (a type of sourdough) instead of brewer's yeast in their breads and pizzas. Pasta Madre is an ancient method for fermentation of dough used by the Etruscans, Greeks and Romans using only flour and water.  We drove into the heart of the beautiful Sabina territory to explore ancient Sabine ruins and to visit the Sanctuary of Saint Victoria: Virgin & Martyr [Santa Vittoria: Vergine e Martire]. Trebula Mutuesca: Trebula was a Sabine settlement until 290 BC when it was conquested by the Romans. It is not known exactly when the Sabine people founded the town, but there is pre-Roman testimony in the form of terracotta fragments dedicated to the cult of the goddess Feronia, which would date the area to the 4th century BC, but the Sabine people in general inhabited the central part of Italy since circa 1000 BC. The Sanctuary: As you arrive two large ancient lions greet you at the entrance to the sanctuary grounds, and there are numerous fragments of columns randomly placed as well to admire. Two large fragments have bulls head carved into them but they don't look like the ones associated with the cult of Mithras. The name Monteleone... literally means 'Mount Lion' and undoubtedly comes from the discovery during the Middle Ages of many carved lions. Why so many lions? The cult of the goddess Feronia - a goddess depicted as a female statue with lions on either side - connected with nature (kind of like Mother Earth) and also the Underworld. For the Etruscans Feronia was the goddess of Fire and Fertility, for the Romans she was goddess of the Woods and Wild Animals - a bit like Diana. Having lions so closely tied with the cult of Feronia, lions would have been placed at the entrances to tombs to protect the deceased's soul from evil as they journeyed into the afterlife (Etruscans and Romans also did this - one lion still remains in tact, guarding the entrance to one tomb in the necropolis at Banditaccia, Cerveteri). There was even a temple dedicated to Feronia in the sacred area at Largo Argentina in the centre of Rome. As you wander around Monteleone Sabino today you will spot quite a few of these original lion statues.
The legend of Vittoria and her martyrdom: Vittoria, who belonged to a wealthy Roman family, had been promised in marriage to rich noble: Eugenio. But the young woman refused, convinced to want to become a "Virgin of Christ." She sold all her jewellery and expensive clothes, distributing them to the poor. At this, Eugenio - the husband-to-be – decided to exile her, hoping for a change of heart, and banished her to one of his properties in Sabina: Trebula Mutuesca {today Monteleone Sabino}. Victoria faced her exile serenely, which lasted three years until 253 AD. According to tradition, a dragon lived in the territory of Trebula Mutuesca, whose pestiferous puff was killing men and animals. Domitian, a lord of Trebula, went to the place where Vittoria had been exiled and begged her to save the city from the dragon. Vittoria replied: "If you, abandoned idols and worship Christ, I will make this dragon flee from you and it will not cause you any further distress" Domitian said: "In the city of Trebula none is more highly placed or honoured than me. Tell me when you drive out the dragon and I will make all the inhabitants of Trebula Christian. "Vittoria replied, "the day after tomorrow a rooster will crow and in the name of Jesus Christ I will make the dragon flee from your territory." Two days later, as promised, the Saint had liberated the city from the evil dragon; and, as promised by the gentleman, all Trebulani became Christians. Now that the dragon’s cave was empty Vittoria used it to live in, and summoning the people said, "Listen to me: build me an oratory in this place and give your young virgins to me as my disciples." In a short time more than 60 girls became her disciples. However, favour soon turned its back on the young Vittoria. Eugenio (her once 'husband-to-be') thought long and hard before denouncing her as a Christian to Rome’s authorities – in fact he waited 3 years. It was a risky plan – if he could persuade Vittoria to marry him he would gain all of her wealth; on the other hand, once denounced, the authorities might confiscate it all, as was the law at that time. As soon as Eugenio did denounce her a commissioner named Taliarco was sent from Rome to Trebula to try to convince Vittoria to worship the goddess Diana instead of Christ. When she refused Taliarco stabbed her to death. At this news all citizens mourned for seven days; priests of Christ and all the people buried her, sprinkling her with unguents and covered her with linen cloths. They placed her in a sarcophagus and laid it in the cave from where she had chased the dragon. Many miracles occurred at this site. She was martyred on the 18th December, 253 AD and buried on the 23rd of the same month. A shrine and tiny one-roomed chapel was built at the site of the martyrdom. In addition to the sarcophagus that was of Saint Vittoria one can see an ancient cistern which, according to tradition, sprang forth at the moment of the martyrdom. With Saracen threat, the body of the saint was moved to the Abbey of Farfa (late 9th century AD) and soon after (10th century AD) to Le Marche, to Santa Vittoria in Matenano. In fact, today, Monteleone Sabino is twinned with Santa Vittoria in Matenano. Relics of Saint Vittoria are preserved in Bagnoregio and Subiaco - but we don't know exactly which body parts these are.  The views from here are amazing. And it's so peaceful - it's easy to forget that you are in the 21st Century. Below shows the main entrance to the chapel from the inside and underneath you can just see the lintel over the doorway which leads into the catacomb. Perhaps it was because we were the only people in the small catacomb but it has the most 'still' atmosphere...it was like standing in 'nothingness'. Hard to describe really but imagine no sound, no movement of air, no vibrations of any kind - an unexpected experience.  
The Catacombs: The catacombs, which date to the 3rd century, are especially important for their particular funeral architecture characterized by large masonry niche tombs built one over the other - a total of 160 in all. They are small and irregular, carved into gravel and grit rock typical of this area. Overall the catacombs extend 40 metres but only a small section is open to the public. Situated in a geographical position not far from the junction between the road connecting the town to the Turano Valley, and the one heading south to Via Valeria, located along an ancient road of the sacred area dedicated to the goddess Feronia, whose cult is also linked to agriculture and fertility. The Church: As mentioned above, a tiny shrine – basically a room – was built in the 3rd century AD so that people could venerate the saint. It is not known exactly what happened at the site for the next 500 years until documents from the 8th century came to light mentioning a church - not the original tiny chapel, but an actual church - said to belong to the Abbey of Farfa, stating that relics of the saint were placed there. Observing the current church architecture there are elements that do not fit with the 12th century period, suggesting that pieces from the 8th century church were recycled...or up-cycled and integrated into the new one. In the 15th century the church was extended by the Orsini family, including the apse and reconstruction of the entire left nave which had collapsed during the 14th century. Today this place of worship dedicated to Saint Vittoria is one of the most beautiful Romanesque churches in central Italy. 
Sanctuary Opening Hours: Summer: 1st April - 30 September from 10am - 1pm / 4pm - 7pm Winter: 1st October - 31 March from 10am - 1pm / 2.30pm - 5.30pm Open Sundays and Holidays except: New Year's Eve/Day, Easter, Ferragosto (15th August), Christmas. To request a special visit call 342/19.87.590 with at least 2 days notice. There is also a small museum open Sundays {same opening hours as above except from 3pm in Summer and closing at 6.30pm in Winter}. Below is a gorgeous traditional grocery store {alimentari} situated in the old part of Monteleone Sabino. It was closed when we were there but it's absolutely charming, with the wooden door sign and geraniums aplenty. Also pictured {below} are: one of the many lion sculptures dotted around the old town; part of the Via Francigena leading under an archway; Via Trebulana - after the orignal name of the ancient Sabine settlement Trebula Mutuesca; the door with the double cross above it used later as a hospital, also note the lions either side of the entrance; and an attractive tiny red door on the small main square; and a fresco of Saint Victoria which is located at the back of the chapel of the sanctuary. 
What to Eat in Monteleone SabinoFETTUCCINE ALLA TREBULANA This is the most famous traditional local pasta dish, which also has an annual festival named after it every August - usually the first week. MAKE YOUR OWN FRESH FETTUCCINE: 400g flour 4 medium eggs Tip the weighed flour onto a large pastry board and make a well in the centre. Break all 4 eggs into the centre and gradually with the fingers and hands mix the eggs into the flour until you have a smooth firm dough. Cover the dough with a clean cloth or tea towel and leave to relax for 30 minutes. Roll out the dough using a very long thin wooden rolling pin until the dough has stretched to about a metre in diameter, then roll it all around the rolling pin, withdraw the rolling pen and let the rolled dough dry. Cut the rolled dough into strips and pile into 'baskets', eventually ready to boil. We will add the 'Trebulana' part of the recipe as soon as we have had a go at making it ourselves! I would personally like to try a vegetarian version of it so will post both eventually. What to BuySabina DOP - Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Look for the 'D.O.P.' mark of quality & authenticity.  We decided to head for the beautiful mountain forests of the Monti Cimini. We arrived just in time for lunch and enjoyed a really great meal in this totally isolated wooden mountain restaurant called Baita La Faggeta. I have to admit we were both taken aback by the quality of food, service and surroundings - it just wasn't what we expected in the middle of a forest - and having seen their website (which doesn't really do the place justice) we we're expecting mud and walking boots. Ordinarily I'm not keen on porcini mushrooms but guided by the owner I decided to give them another chance so I had the home-made fettuccine with truffle sauce and porcini - so tastey, with the porcini chopped up small just as I'd requested and the aroma was amazing. My dining partner chose the brazed wild boar starter with salad and parmesan shavings, and for main course the fettuccine with wild boar and tomato ragu. For dessert we shared a crema catalana (one each would have been greedy) but I forgot to take a photo of it (too busy diving in with my spoon).
We enjoyed the wine we had with our meal so much that we decided to go in search of it! All we had to go on was a name: Fufluns, and the name of the nearest town to where the producer is based: Gallese, but we didn't find any info on internet and the signal kept disappearing anyway. We stopped a few times to ask various locals if they knew the address. We also discovered that Fufluns was the Etruscan god of wine, akin to Bacchus (Roman mythology) and Dionysus (Greek mythology). After driving for several minutes (in a number of wrong directions) we eventually (internet signal returned) managed to end up in the right area. After asking a few more locals we found the place - or, if I'm honest, one of the very nice chaps we asked for directions lead the way in his vehicle and we followed him in ours. It was not easy to find but we got there in the end (anything for a bottle of wine). So, here we are, with several bottles of Fufluns in the fridge (and in my glass). You can drink this wine by itself (of course) but it is better with cold meals or cheeses. INTO THE TREES . . . . There are a few routes to choose from in this pretty huge forest, starting with the wooden trail - which makes you feel as though you're following the yellow brick road from Wizard of Oz. During the week (nobody around) there is an eerie silence and you feel as though you're being watched (by the wildlife). Weekends are decidedly busier.   At the top of a long ridge inside one area of the extensive beech forest (one of the most southerly Beech forests in Europe), which dominates this territory, is a series of dark pebble shapes. As one get closer, the phenomenon seems even more curious. These pebbles vary in size, from about 30 cm in diameter to ones taller than a man, and look as though they have been placed there by giants. Actually, this curious formation is thought to have occurred when the top of Vico volcano (which, since 138,000 years ago is now Vico lake) blew off, sending molten lava, debris and ash high into the atmosphere and, as it came down again, the parts that landed on this mountain - on account of their chemical composition - cooled into these pebble shapes. 
 This attractive and unusual area can be incorporated into our Private Day Trips of the Tuscia territory and can include castles or villa visits, wine & olive oil tasting, or a quick stop at a chocolate factory shop, set in attractive agricultural land of acres of hazelnut trees, for which this area is famous.   I couldn't help wondering why Guarcino became so famous (to those in the know, at least) for its delicious moist almond macaroons when the most well known place for almonds, in Italy, is Siciliy with their 'Mandorla di Avola'. Mandorla is the Italian for almond and Avola is an unspoiled coastal town between Syracuse and Pachino (where the tomatoes come from?) pointing towards Africa. Almonds are also grown in nearby Noto. I found this wonderful quote during research for this post - I'm ashamed to say neither of us has visited Sicily yet:
In praise of the almond: packed full of vitamin E, healthy fats, magnesium, and can block hunger until it's time for lunch...or dinner..or whatever, and far better a handful of nutritious nuts than a sugary snack. {pictured: Amaretti di Guarcino}   Guarcino, or as it was known in Roman times "Varcenum", is nestled close the Hernici mountains - standing at 625 metres above sea level. Origins date all the way back to the 8th century B.C., when the area was inhabited by ancient Hernici tribes. It continued to be important to the Romans for its strategic position...and probably for its source of natural mineral water, with the first evidence of the water dating back to 400 B.C., having dedicated the springs to the goddess Venus, and the first written records dating back to 50 A.D. by a writer living at the time of Seneca. It was even written that Roman soldiers washed their war wounds in this water for its healing properties.  Further past the closer mountains stands the massive Campocatino - location of one of the oldest ski resorts of central Italy, with peaks over 2000 mtrs, offering up magnificent views - from the mountains right the way to the Tyrrhenian Sea and beyond to the Pontine Islands. The isolation and wild beauty of this place attracted many hermits, including St. Benedict on his journey from Subiaco to Montecassino, passing through Guarcino, and there is a small hermitage built into the rock above the town called Sant'Agnello which can be reached heading up the Via S. Luca by car, as far as the Saint Luca monastery, then the rest of the way on foot. Anyway, the story goes that the recipe for this sweet was donated by an old monk (not St. Benedict), in gratitude to those who offered him food and shelter in Guarcino, after miles and miles of arduous walking. Ski-lovers [click here] |
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In the Middle Ages, during hunting season, local lords would dine at the Rock of Rivituro, an ancient stronghold (which still exists today - try out the Rocca di Rivituro Restaurant), to enjoy delicious game meat such as hare, wild boar and pheasant, plus sheep cheese, pizzas made from wheat flour, but most of all they would enjoy the almond macaroons: the pride of Guarcino. Finally, the other thing Guarcino is famous for is its ham (prosciutto) - try out Erzinio for their fine selections.
Today, typically Medieval architectural and decorative elements of great artistic importance, such as portals, mullioned windows, and three-light windows are still standing making Guarcino a very pretty small town and is known throughout the Ciociaro territory for its characteristic sweet, which has been produced for many centuries.
A festival in honour of the amaretti is held every year in late July.
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THE RECIPE
200g almonds (peeled) -I bought ready ground. Try to buy the best quality you can.
20g bitter almonds (peeled) - I did not include these.
225g icing sugar (use 100% icing sugar - no additives) The recipe I found said 300g but I felt that would be a bit too sweet for my taste.
4 large egg whites
METHOD
My mixture made 16 - each of approx 3-4cm across.
I dusted mine with a little extra icing sugar and edible sparkles.
They were delicious hot from the oven and stayed gooey in the centre even after cooling - the way I like them best!
Today, typically Medieval architectural and decorative elements of great artistic importance, such as portals, mullioned windows, and three-light windows are still standing making Guarcino a very pretty small town and is known throughout the Ciociaro territory for its characteristic sweet, which has been produced for many centuries.
A festival in honour of the amaretti is held every year in late July.
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THE RECIPE
200g almonds (peeled) -I bought ready ground. Try to buy the best quality you can.
20g bitter almonds (peeled) - I did not include these.
225g icing sugar (use 100% icing sugar - no additives) The recipe I found said 300g but I felt that would be a bit too sweet for my taste.
4 large egg whites
METHOD
- Sieve the icing sugar to remove any lumps and combine with the ground almonds in a bowl.
- In another bowl whisk the egg whites until fluffy and have become about 4 times their original volume.
- The gradually stir in the dry ingredients into the egg white until it is fully combined. Taste a bit to check the sweetness...remember that raw mixture always tastes sweeter than when it has been baked.
- Spoon onto a lightly buttered non-stick baking tray (the butter gives a yummy golden crispness underneath and a light buttery taste). You can use rice paper instead but I didn't have any.
- Heat the oven to 180°c and place your tray just above the centre shelf and bake for 30 mins (until they are light golden brown).
My mixture made 16 - each of approx 3-4cm across.
I dusted mine with a little extra icing sugar and edible sparkles.
They were delicious hot from the oven and stayed gooey in the centre even after cooling - the way I like them best!
Above: waiting for afternoon tea! These ducks are fed by a local woman every day at the same time - today she was a little late and the ducks were getting impatient.
Below. here they are doing their impression of The Beetles crossing Abbey Road....going in search of 'la signora' and bread!
Above and below - notice the brown sign above the 20km speed limit, which reads 'Borgo dei Pescatori' - this translates simply as 'fishing village' and is the older part of Marta.
 Located on the southern shore of Lake Bolsena, Lazio's largest crater lake. |
Some experts date the origins of Marta to the very ancient Phoenician period (1200 - 500 BC) and that its ancient name was Marath. Others maintain that its origins are purely Etruscan. Today Marta is still a fishing village, with its own Palazzo Farnese (the more famous Palazzo Farnese is located in the town of Caprarola a short drive away), then there is a sanctuary and - most interestingly - a local red dessert wine made from the Cannaiolo grape variety - one of the territory's autochthonous grape varieties and which we especially enjoy during the winter.
As you can see from the wild-looking photos below, we visited on a very blustery Autumnal day but instead of damping our spirits it added to the fun and we find this place very charming. With waves flying up at us, I got some great shots and am pleased to say that my camera lens made a full recovery. The headland you can see in the 1st photo below is Capodimonte (not the Capodimonte famous for pottery - that is near Naples), and the island you can see in the 2nd and 3rd photos below is Isola Martana.
There are just two islands (Bisentina and Martana), both formed at the time of the volcanic eruption. Bisentina is the larger, inhabited since 1200 AD, and was owned by the wealthy and famous Aldobrandeschi family. In 1261 the island was annexed to the church and became the summer residence of the pope until 1758. It eventually became privately owned by the aristocratic family of the 'Princes of the Dragon' (Principi del Drago); lords of the castle of Bolsena. Descendants - Principessa Angelica and Principe Giovanni del Drago - still own the island, and therefore it is not possible to visit. The smaller island of Martana takes its name from Marta - its closest port - and was formed around 130.000 years ago during an underwater eruption. For Star Trek fans - from the air the island looks like the Star Trek uniform symbol.
As you can see from the wild-looking photos below, we visited on a very blustery Autumnal day but instead of damping our spirits it added to the fun and we find this place very charming. With waves flying up at us, I got some great shots and am pleased to say that my camera lens made a full recovery. The headland you can see in the 1st photo below is Capodimonte (not the Capodimonte famous for pottery - that is near Naples), and the island you can see in the 2nd and 3rd photos below is Isola Martana.
There are just two islands (Bisentina and Martana), both formed at the time of the volcanic eruption. Bisentina is the larger, inhabited since 1200 AD, and was owned by the wealthy and famous Aldobrandeschi family. In 1261 the island was annexed to the church and became the summer residence of the pope until 1758. It eventually became privately owned by the aristocratic family of the 'Princes of the Dragon' (Principi del Drago); lords of the castle of Bolsena. Descendants - Principessa Angelica and Principe Giovanni del Drago - still own the island, and therefore it is not possible to visit. The smaller island of Martana takes its name from Marta - its closest port - and was formed around 130.000 years ago during an underwater eruption. For Star Trek fans - from the air the island looks like the Star Trek uniform symbol.
Below are some views from the top of old Marta. In the first you can see all the way across the lake to Bolsena town, below this is Capodimonte again and Isola Bisentina, and below that is a view of the main high street. There is also, surprisingly, a small coffee production company based about half way along, behind the main high street, which we love the flavour of, called CAFFE FIDA. The shop - via Laertina, 115 - has slightly unpredictable opening times but the coffee is worth it and they have a nice selection of chocolates, wines and gifts as well.
Below are various views from around Marta...
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Visiting Marta
Getting to Marta, and Lake Bolsena, is best by car. We have never attempted this journey using public transport but from Rome you would need to get as far as Viterbo by train and then find a local bus or hire a taxi to go the rest of the way. However, you could end up with not much left of your day for sightseeing. We organise various day trips into this highly scenic territory, combining culture & history with wine tasting. For further details have a look at our sample itineraries.
Good places for food around the lake - 'Al Purgatorio' in nearby Gradoli, 'La Roccia' at Capodimonte and 'La Pineta' on the opposite side of the lake in Bolsena town. Opening times vary but Thursday is usually closing day in this area.
Good places for food around the lake - 'Al Purgatorio' in nearby Gradoli, 'La Roccia' at Capodimonte and 'La Pineta' on the opposite side of the lake in Bolsena town. Opening times vary but Thursday is usually closing day in this area.
There is much to explore in Montebuono - if you love old things as we do - but this post is focussing on the Church of St Peter because we found it absolutely fascinating and merits its own spotlight.
The church is called St. Peter "ad Muricentum" or "ad Centumuros" (lit. 100 walls - the presence of numerous Roman remains would suggest a Roman house or baths in the immediate vicinity). It is located just outside the town of Montebuono, in the locality of Grignano and the cemetery, situated on a hill overlooked by the Sabine hills and overlooking the Tiber valley. It is thought to date to the 13th century.
The façade is asymmetrical, the entrance appears to be too far to the left (or the right, if you're viewing it from outside) but this is because the church was originally a different size. The interior has two aisles, divided by four lowered arches on pillars and columns. The right aisle is divided into three bays, of which the last two are covered by vaults.
The façade is asymmetrical, the entrance appears to be too far to the left (or the right, if you're viewing it from outside) but this is because the church was originally a different size. The interior has two aisles, divided by four lowered arches on pillars and columns. The right aisle is divided into three bays, of which the last two are covered by vaults.
The church's History
There is a slightly leaning, square bell tower detached from the church, with two rows of mullioned windows. It dates back to the 12th century and the characteristics of its construction can be attributed to Lombard craftsmen.
The church, although heavily altered over time, retains the features of the original Romanesque structure, which recent restoration work has revealed. Reconstruction work of the pavement has also brought to light a series of underground rooms, partly reused over time as ossuaries, which belonged to a country house from the Roman age (Italian - 'villa rustica') often referred to as the "Baths of Agrippa," due to a fragment of inscription found in the ruins, which mentions General Agrippa, son of Emperor Augustus, died in Campania in 12 BC.
(above shows the Miracles of St. James the Greater in close-up and underneath the next photo you can see him with the sick and needy approaching his table)
There are actually three layers of decoration inside the church and in areas you can see one layer on top of another, on top of another. The top layer indicates the end of the fourteenth century and the first half of the fifteenth century. The oldest surviving paintings within the complex are those of the 10th century. Among the images are: a Madonna and Child enthroned with angels and St. John the Baptist; two Madonnas with Child portrayed with Jesus caressing on of the Madonnas faces and the other in the act of nursing her Son. There are also two large panels with paintings of the Martyrdom of St. Lawrence and the Miracle of Our Lady of the Olives - how relevant it is to have a Madonna of Olives in the area of Sabina which is famous for its olive oil.
In the right aisle of the chapel is the painting of the meeting of Joachim and Anna at the Golden Gate. Inside, placed on the side walls are some episodes of the Life of John the Baptist (the baptism of Christ, the feast of Herod and the Beheading), the Martyrdom of St. John the Evangelist and Apostle James the Greater Miracles; on the back wall there is the Crucifixion. This important series of paintings were made by Jacopo da Roccantica, a follower of Ottaviano Nelli.
When the church was built many materials from the Roman era were reused (early up-cycling).
The walls of the villa were saved only in part, mosaic flooring re-emerged plus fragments of frescoed walls, a plastered cistern perfectly in tact, giving an insight into the layout and size of the villa, which was undoubtedly very wide.
In the right aisle of the chapel is the painting of the meeting of Joachim and Anna at the Golden Gate. Inside, placed on the side walls are some episodes of the Life of John the Baptist (the baptism of Christ, the feast of Herod and the Beheading), the Martyrdom of St. John the Evangelist and Apostle James the Greater Miracles; on the back wall there is the Crucifixion. This important series of paintings were made by Jacopo da Roccantica, a follower of Ottaviano Nelli.
When the church was built many materials from the Roman era were reused (early up-cycling).
The walls of the villa were saved only in part, mosaic flooring re-emerged plus fragments of frescoed walls, a plastered cistern perfectly in tact, giving an insight into the layout and size of the villa, which was undoubtedly very wide.
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It doesn't look much from a distance but when you understand the significance of the scenes the walls seem to come alive. The far wall has the oldest paintings.
Below are some close-ups of the frescoes including the artist's vision of Hell (below centre and right) where all sorts of grisly punishments are depicted - lest one stray from the path of righteousness. These powerful images were meant to terrify people into good behaviour. As it was rare for peasants to be able to read, they learned the bible from imagery.
The bottom row of these 8 photos are interesting. The Knights Templar certainly moved around a lot and their symbols are found all over the place but we couldn't figure out the niche underneath the cross, which has strange symbols of its own, or any documentation regarding the Knights.
The image bottom right, on the other hand, is interesting because it depicts Assisi but the church of St. Francis is not shown - it has been purposefully omitted by the artist (one of the White Brotherhood).
This group called the White Brotherhood was a religious movement with an intense dislike of the corruption of the church. They passed into Italy from France, and evidence shows that they came to the province of Rieti on their travels southwards down the peninsular, stopping at Montebuono, Rieti, Poggio Mirteto, Leonessa and Fare in Sabina, to spread 'pace e bene' (peace & goodwill). They maintained that a miracle occurred in Assisi in 1399 (The Miracle of the Apparition of the Madonna dell'Oliva) so this was depicted in the painting but the church was not.
The two floating figures above Assisi are thought to be St Francis and Santa Chiara.
The bottom row of these 8 photos are interesting. The Knights Templar certainly moved around a lot and their symbols are found all over the place but we couldn't figure out the niche underneath the cross, which has strange symbols of its own, or any documentation regarding the Knights.
The image bottom right, on the other hand, is interesting because it depicts Assisi but the church of St. Francis is not shown - it has been purposefully omitted by the artist (one of the White Brotherhood).
This group called the White Brotherhood was a religious movement with an intense dislike of the corruption of the church. They passed into Italy from France, and evidence shows that they came to the province of Rieti on their travels southwards down the peninsular, stopping at Montebuono, Rieti, Poggio Mirteto, Leonessa and Fare in Sabina, to spread 'pace e bene' (peace & goodwill). They maintained that a miracle occurred in Assisi in 1399 (The Miracle of the Apparition of the Madonna dell'Oliva) so this was depicted in the painting but the church was not.
The two floating figures above Assisi are thought to be St Francis and Santa Chiara.
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Below are just two examples of the Roman pieces that were reused in the church - the pillar bottom (left) and the lovely decorative white marble (right).
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A few shots of the church and town in the rain and mist. Notice the original doorway and the new round window which was added much later.
In 2009 a rare 15th century manuscript was returned to Montebuono, presumably after many years, where it rightly belongs, thanks to scholars from the Lillian Goldman Law Library.
In 2009 a rare 15th century manuscript was returned to Montebuono, presumably after many years, where it rightly belongs, thanks to scholars from the Lillian Goldman Law Library.
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Visiting the Church
Viewing is by appointment only and the church is kept locked to protect these absolute treasures.
If you are interested in visiting as part of one of our private day trips please get in touch with us at least 2 weeks in advance.
If you are interested in visiting as part of one of our private day trips please get in touch with us at least 2 weeks in advance.
Where to Eat....
There are some very unique places to eat near Montebuono
- Solo per Due - a tiny (possibly the tiniest) restaurant where the two of you are the only diners
- l'Oasi del Vescovo - which is a lovely relaxing complex, with Roman ruins (Forum Novum) and the Sanctuary of Vescovio
- Ristorante delle Angeli - for upper end dining in the heart of the Sabina countryside (also small hotel)
- La Casina nel Parco - Shaker-chic style ambience.
- Relais Villa d'Assio ' Tempe' restaurant serves absolutely excellent food of the region.