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Blogging about Rome & Lazio | Food | Wine | Art | Places | Traditions

3/10/2016

Ronciglione

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Today Ronciglione is a thriving attractive town, welcoming tourists and visitors throughout the year but especially in Summer when people come to enjoy the lake, cycling and walking. Holidaymakers camping at Lake Bolsena are within easy reach of Ronciglione - a pretty route by bike or campervan. 

The main high street is about 2 km long, lined with pretty pastel coloured shops and houses - some dating back to the 17th century which you can see reflected in the beautiful architectural features such as the balconies. 
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Ronciglione is NOT a place where you should come if you want to watch your waistline though, as there are delicious pastry shops, bakeries, ice-cream shops and cafès, plus a choice of excellent restaurants - of one which is owned by one of the Fendi sisters. There is a great bakery which only makes bread, cobs, pizzas (not your usual idea of a pizza - these are referred to as pizza rossa (red) or pizza bianca (white), served by weight or size, and are usually eaten cold) and some traditional sweet biscuits and tarts. Our favourite pastry shop is the 'Dolce Borgo' pictured below, located on Via del Lavatoio. The owners speak some English, otherwise just point! :) For delicious and very filling take-away (or eat-in) we love 'Corte dei Prefetti di Vico' on the main high street.
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There are a number of famous events which take place in the town each year. Starting with Carnival in Feb/Mar, the Mille Miglia vintage car race passes through in May, and the Palio in July. If you want to practice your Italian there is an open-air cinema late evenings throughout August. We can honestly say that these are all fun events, worth experiencing at least once during your stay in central Italy and you MUST go to our favourite pastry shop!  
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Above you get a glimpse of the old part of town - the Borgo Medievale (Medieval village), considered one of the most beautiful 'burgs' of central Italy. It is a charming muddle of balconies, flower pots and hanging laundry - and a castle! Bring your camera or sketchbook to record the many pretty corners and alleys (which also provide cool shade in the Summer heat!) and if you would like to visit the castle then please get in touch with us through our contact form.  

A Bit of History

The most ancient document mentioning Ronciglione dates to 1103 but an historian from 16th century Orvieto gave a slightly earlier date of 1045, due to the Prefetti of Vico. Later it was a possession of the House of Anguillara, a baronal familty of Latium and a Guelph family of Rome. Pope Paul II conquered it to the Papal States in 1465.
In 1526 Ronciglione became a possession of the House of Farnese, and lived its period of greatest splendour: its industries included manufacturing of copper, iron, paper, weapons and others. In 1649 the Farnese seigniory ended and was bought back by Pope Innocent X, in 1728 it received the status of city by Pope Benedict XIII.
The Ronciglionesi took active part in the Roman Republic of 1798–99: the French troops, however, crushed the revolt and burnt the city on July 20, 1799.
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Monuments & sights (mostly churches):
  • The Castle - often referred to simply as The Rock (La Rocca) - originally built in the High MIddle Ages, with characteristic round towers at each corner and had Giulia "La Bella" Farnese as it's honoured guest on the upper floors.
  • The Cathedral, which has a beautiful Baroque façade designed by Pietro da Cortona. It was rebuilt between 1671-1695 by Carlo Rainaldi. The bell tower was added later (1734). Inside is Tryptych of Christ painted in the 15th century by a local artist.
  • The 11th century church of Santa Maria della Provvidenza was restored in the Baroque style. It retains its three-level Romanesque belfry, the interior has a single nave, and houses some frescoes from the 15th century.
  • The church of St. Andrew (12th-13th c.) is basically a ruin but still has a notable belfry from 1436.
  • The church of Santa Maria della Pace, dates to 1581 and is usually attributed to Jacopo Barozzi da Vignola or Rainaldi. It houses paintings by Sebastiano Conca (born in Gaeta, Lazio), Giuseppe Cesari (also called Il Giuseppino and the Cavalier d'Arpino), and a tabernacle by Sansovino.
  • The cute little church called basilica of Sant'Eusebio, is hidden on a track called Via Sant Eusebio heading out of Ronciglione towards Rome. It was built by monks who'd escaped from Palestine in the 7th and 8th centuries. Traces of the ancient coenoby and the belfry can still be seen. The interior has one nave with aisles of irregular dimensions, and frescoes dating to the 12th-13th centuries, plus a Madonna with Child from the 15th century. It is dedicated to St. Eusebius who was bishop of Sutri - a smaller nearby town.

Places to Get Wed

Well, of course there is the very charming aforementioned medieval castle situated a short walk from the main church; there is a hotel (with small spa and medium-sized outdoor pool) overlooking Lake Vico, and an estate belonging to a noble family called Villa Lina which has an area with its own private pool set in a kiwi plantation. 

Claims to Fame!

The classic film 'La Vita è Bella' starring Roberto Benigni (Life is Beautiful) was set during WWII and used Ronciglione's disused train station for the scene where they have to get on the train (about half way through), and the church of Sant'Eusebio was used as a location for one of the many films of the life of St. Francis - and infact the St. Francis Way...better known as the Via Francigena, runs through Ronciglione near the castle. 

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  • in Rome
    • Ghosts. Witchcraft & Death
    • Be a Gladiator of Rome
    • Borgias: Power Love Betrayal
    • Coffee Houses on The Corso Rome
    • Private Cocktail Class in Rome
  • Weekends Out of Rome
    • Food & Wine
    • Coastal Myths & Legends
    • Castles & Gardens
    • Mysterious Etruscans
    • Spa & Relax!
    • The Appian Way Beyond Rome
    • Sanctuaries in Lazio
  • Discover Lazio
    • Viterbo | Tuscia
    • Rieti | Sabina
    • Rome | Roma
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    • Latina | Agro Pontino
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    • f.a.q.
    • Contact & Hours